The internal filling of the tank is not a very complicated device, but its breakdown can significantly reduce the comfortable feeling for the residents of the house. It happens that everything looks fine, but the work of the drain mechanism leaves much to be desired.
To fix the problems, you will need to properly configure the toilet fittings. This procedure must be performed when installing plumbing, and later the draining operation has to be periodically adjusted.
If you encounter such a problem, our material will help to quickly solve it, without even having to seek the help of specialists. We will tell you how to organize the work of the toilet flush device. For clarity, the material contains thematic photos and videos.
Types of fittings for flushing tanks
The principle of operation of a conventional tank is not complicated: it has a hole through which water enters, and a place for water to discharge into the toilet. The first is closed by a special valve, the second by a flap. When you press a lever or button, the flap rises, and water, in whole or in part, enters the toilet, and then into the sewer.
After that, the flap returns to its place and closes the drain point. Immediately after this, the drain valve mechanism is triggered, which opens a hole for water intake. The tank is filled to a certain level, after which the inlet is blocked. Water supply and shutoff are regulated by a special valve.
The fittings for the drain tank is a simple mechanical device that provides a set of water in the plumbing tank and its drain when you press the lever or button
Distinguish between separate and combined design of fittings, implementing a set of necessary for flushing the volume of water and draining it after activating the flushing device.
Separate and combined options
Separate option used for many decades. It is considered cheaper and easier to repair and configure. With this design, the filler valve and the damper are installed separately, they are not connected to each other.
The shut-off valve for the tank is designed so that it is easy to install, dismantle or change its height
To control the flow and shutdown of water, a float sensor is used, in the role of which even a piece of ordinary polystyrene is sometimes used. In addition to the mechanical damper, an air valve can be used for the drain hole.
A rope or chain can be used as a lever to raise the flap or open the valve. This is a typical option for models made in retro style, when the tank is placed quite high.
In compact toilet models, control is most often carried out using the button that you need to press. For people with special needs, a foot pedal can be installed, but this is a rare option.
In recent years, double-button models have been very popular that allow emptying the tank not only completely, but also by half, to save some of the water.
Separate option valves is convenient in that it is possible to repair and configure individual parts of the system separately.
Combined fittings are used in high-class plumbing, here the drain and water intake are connected to a common system. This option is considered more reliable, convenient and expensive. If this mechanism breaks down, it will be necessary to completely dismantle the system for repair. Customization can also cause some difficulties.
The fittings for the toilet tank with side and bottom water supply differ in the device, but the principles of adjustment and repair are very similar
Materials for the manufacture of devices
Most often, fittings for the toilet are made of polymeric materials. Usually, the more expensive such a system, the more reliable it is, but this method does not provide clear guarantees. There are fakes of well-known brands, and quite reliable and inexpensive domestic products. The average buyer can only try to find a good seller and hope for good luck.
Bronze and brass fittings alloys It is considered much more reliable, and to fake such devices is much more difficult. But the cost of these mechanisms will be significantly higher than that of plastic products.
Metal filling usually used in plumbing elite class. With proper setup and installation, such a mechanism has been functioning smoothly for many years.
In toilets with a lower water supply, the inlet and shut-off valves are very close. When setting up the valve, make sure that the moving parts do not touch
Water supply
An important point is the place where water enters the toilet. It can be carried out from the side or from the bottom. When water is poured from a side hole, it produces a certain amount of noise, which is not always pleasant to others.
If water comes from below, it happens almost silently. Bottom feed water in the tank is typical rather for new models released abroad.
But traditional tanks of domestic production usually have side feed water. The advantage of this option is its relatively low price. Installation also varies. Elements of the lower water supply can be installed in the tank even before it is installed. But the lateral feed is mounted only after the tank is installed on the toilet bowl.
To replace the fittings are selected taking into account the option of supplying water to the plumbing tank, it can be lateral or lower
Typical problems with the tank
Tank problems most often arise for three reasons:
- due to improper installation;
- after incorrect valve settings;
- as a result of wear or breakdown of individual components and elements.
If a there is too much or not enough water in the tankFirst of all, it is recommended to check the condition of the float. If the lever is made of thick wire, it will be easy to set up.
It is enough to bend the metal slightly so that the float changes its position. If more water is needed, the float needs to be moved higher. To do this, the wire is bent with an arc down.
If there is too much water in the tank, the float should be lowered a little. For this, the wire holding this element is bent upward. But in the new models, all the elements are made of plastic that cannot be bent. Here, a special screw is provided for changing the position of the float. Rotating it, you can move the float to the desired level.
Sometimes lack of water in the tank It is connected not with the incorrect position of the float, but with the contamination of the flow openings through which water enters. In this case, you must remove the float from the mechanism, then remove the membrane covering the hole and flush the mechanism.
In order to adjust the level of the accumulating water in the tank with a simple float tap, you need to do a few simple steps:
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Step 1: Adjusting the lever of the float tap
Step 2: Tighten the adjusting nut with pliers
Step 3: Check the water in the tank
Step 4: Change the position of the float as needed
Of course, before starting any manipulations with the tank, it is necessary to shut off the water in the riser.
If water enters the tank continuously, then you need to check the condition of the membrane or valve that the float valve is equipped with, for this:
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Step 1: Removing the float valve from the tank
Step 2: disassembling the head of the float tap
Step 3: Inspect the membrane of the float tap
Step 4: Reassemble the device and install
Prudent owners, even when installing the toilet, mount a shut-off valve directly in front of it. In this case, it is not necessary to block the entire riser; it is enough to disconnect only the tank and proceed with repair and adjustment.
There is a rubber gasket at the lower end of the shut-off valve, the wear of which leads to a constant flow of water into the toilet
Sometimes the following unpleasant situation is observed: water constantly flows out of the tank, and the tank either is only partially filled, or even remains completely empty. Most likely, the locking mechanism that is installed incorrectly or worn is to blame.
We replace the water drain mechanism as follows:
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We block the supply of water to the tank, drain all the water from it. Then we unscrew the lever and remove the cover. Having access to the drain device, we separate and remove it
Inspect the drain valve. If necessary, clean or change to a new one. If the problem was in it, install the fittings in place, if not, continue to work
If, as a result of the inspection, we find that the cause of the leak is in a faulty drain mechanism, turn off the water supply hose, remove the tank and unscrew the plastic stand outside its bottom
We change the fixing screws connecting the tank to the shelf of a compact toilet. We use new gaskets
Using the key included with the drain device, we fix the new plastic stand
The old, probably damaged, seal is removed from the toilet, thoroughly clean the rim under it and dry
We put a new rubber gasket on the plastic stand of the drain device
We put the drain tank in its place. We carefully combine the technological holes, trying not to crush and not to move the seals when the parts of the device come into contact. We fix the tank with nuts, put into operation
Step 1: Removing the Drain Mechanism from the Tank
Step 2: Valve Inspection and Cleaning
Step 3: Removing the compact flushing tank
Step 4: Replacing the tank mounts to the toilet
Step 5: Installing a New Flush Stand
Step 6: Removing the Old Sealant from the Toilet Shelf
Step 7: Install a New O-Ring
Step 8: Installing the tank in a regular place
More often than not, it is simple enough to tighten the fixing bolts that fix the locking device in the correct position.
If this does not help, check the valve for wear and clogging. To do this, the valve is removed, disassembled and washed, if necessary, replace the worn membrane.
In order to replace the drain and filler valve elements or to carry out simple repairs, it is necessary to study in detail the design of the device to be restored
Sometimes rubber gasket breaks down, which is installed between the tank and the toilet. In this case, water will flow out of the tank and accumulate on the floor near the toilet.
To fix this problem, you will need to completely dismantle the tank, replace the leaky gasket, and reinstall the tank.
The technology for adjusting the fittings installed for the operation of the drain tank is described in detail in the instructions attached by the manufacturer to the products offered to the buyer. The main thing is to strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions
Compact device and adjustment
Compact toilet models have recently become widespread. It makes sense to consider their device in order to understand the main features of the adjustment and repair of the locking mechanism.
A compact toilet consists of the following elements:
- capacity of a drain tank with a cover;
- system of filling water into the tank;
- locking device or water drainage system;
- button or control lever;
- toilet bowl.
The tank in the compact is installed on a special shelf, which is located behind the cup. Usually, the fittings of such a toilet bowl are adjusted after the bowl of the tank is installed, but before the installation of its cover. Before starting work, it is recommended that you carefully read the manufacturer's instructions. Usually there is detailed information on the order of work.
Compact-type toilets are popular because they are comfortable and take up little space. The tank of such a device is mounted on a shelf directly behind the bowl
The device’s overflow pipe is usually marked with a water level that is considered normal for this particular model. You need to find this designation, which is often made in the form of a strip or collar. Usually, if when filling the tank the maximum water level is below this mark, a poor-quality flush of sewage is observed.
To change the situation, you need to rearrange the “glass” on the intake valve to a higher position. To do this, loosen the latches holding this element located under the float. After the required level is set, you need to check the result of work, i.e. fill the tank and drain the water.
On the top of the overflow pipe of the inlet valve of the toilet bowl there is a mark in the form of a dash or shoulder for adjusting the water level
When mounting the tank fittings, it should be remembered that all moving parts of the valves should be separated by a distance, at least a small one. If the valves are in contact during operation, this may interfere with the normal operation of the system, leading to its imbalance and breakdowns. Also, the contact of movable reinforcement elements with the walls of the tank is unacceptable.
To prevent water splashing when typing it into the tank, you most often have to cut or change the filling tube:
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Step 1: Inspecting the filler tube
Step 2: Cutting the new filler pipe for installation
Step 3: Install a new filler pipe
Step 4: Checking water intake and tank operation
An important stage of tank installation is the installation of a cover with a push-button regulator. Between the cover and this assembly, before it is screwed in, there must be a distance of not more than seven millimeters and not less than three. If these conditions are met, then the lid will be fixed securely enough.
Before starting to screw the flush button, the instruction recommends making a couple of turns in the opposite direction, i.e. counterclock-wise.
To save water in modern tanks, a double drain button is installed, which allows you to empty only part of the tank if you wish
This will allow you to center the position of the thread. After that, the screwing of the button assembly is carried out clockwise. You need to rotate your hands all the way, additional tools are usually not needed. At the end of the installation, drain the water again to make sure that the button and all fittings are set up correctly and installed normally.
Compacts are produced both with a lower water supply, and with a side one. With fittings designed for lower water supply, a problem of the type such as clogging of the filter installed on the water supply to the tank may occur. After flushing, i.e. In the process of filling the tank, a characteristic, rather loud and unpleasant whistle is heard.
This situation most often indicates that the filter is clogged and needs to be flushed. Debris accumulated inside reduces the clearance for water, which enters the tank with high pressure and accompanied by sound effects. In addition, due to this malfunction, the tank is filling up much more slowly than usual.
A filter is located under the inlet valve float, the clogging of which may cause the tank to malfunction. For washing, remove the filter
To fix this plumbing flaw, rinse this filter. To do this, shut off the water supply to the tank and press the flush button / lever. After that, remove the hose through which water enters to free access to the device. Now the filter just needs to be removed from the intake valve body, flushed and installed back. Then the system is assembled in reverse order.
In theory, it looks simple, but in reality some difficulties may arise. For example, you need to unscrew the plastic nut securing the inlet valve. If this element has no edges, the task may seem difficult.
You should not use an adjustable wrench in such a situation, since excessive force can damage the fasteners. It’s not always possible to simply cope with your hands, especially if the plastic “burned” as a result of prolonged use.
In order to prevent the precipitate formed when low-quality tap water is delivered to the device, that it does not cause leakage due to the loose fit of the seals and failure of the fittings, the tank and device must be periodically cleaned
Specialists recommend using other means, pliers with a large space between the “lips” may turn out to be an appropriate option. Pliers can also be useful when removing the filter from the housing, since it usually sits tightly, additional efforts will be required to dismantle it.
Where the quality of the tap water remains stably low (i.e. almost everywhere), not only the filter, but also other elements can become clogged. The membrane sleeve, as well as all openings through which water enters, is at risk.
If flushing only the filter is not effective enough, it makes sense to flush the entire device and clean all the ducts. In this case, the inlet valve will have to be completely dismantled to allow access to the holes.
Flushing the filter, and even the entire valve and ducts, unfortunately, does not always help. Poor quality inlet valves can fail completely within a year and a half to two years after the start of operation. In this case, it is necessary to completely replace the valve with a new model. In this situation, it is recommended to choose a filter of a higher quality.
The shut-off and inlet fittings of modern toilets are usually equipped with detailed instructions with which these mechanisms are not difficult to assemble, install and adjust
The additional costs will pay off, since there will be several times fewer problems with setup, flushing and repair. Another way to extend the operation of the tank fittings and prevent problems: put an additional mechanical filter on the water pipe in front of the toilet bowl or even at the entrance of the system to the apartment.
If there are problems with the shut-off valve in the compact, i.e. Since water constantly flows into the toilet, it is easiest to fix the problem by completely replacing the device with a new one, exactly the same. To do this, shut off the water, and simply remove the valve from the tank.
A new one is installed in its place, fixing it in the holders of the receiving part. It is recommended that you adjust the valve length in advance so that there are no problems installing the flush button.
The process of adjusting and repairing the stop valves of the toilet bowl can be viewed in detail here:
Setting up the tank fittings is not difficult. It is important to study the instructions and understand the general principles of operation of the intake and locking mechanisms. Attention to detail and accuracy will help to do all the work correctly.
Have you already faced with setting up drain valves and were able to cope with this task yourself? Or maybe you know other ways to configure the drain? Please share your experience in the box below.