The Stinol brand is popular among lovers of high quality and reasonable price. Reliability, high-quality assembly, functionality and durability of these devices are not in doubt among consumers. But technology remains technology and, despite careful operation, sometimes it breaks.
Stinol refrigerator repair is not a problem, since service centers are almost everywhere. You can repair the equipment yourself. In the article we presented, the causes of characteristic breakdowns and methods for restoring the working capacity of refrigeration machines are described in detail.
The principle of operation of a typical Stinol unit
The Stinol range of refrigeration units is represented by a wide range of models with various operational characteristics. All of them belong to evaporative or compression type devices. This means that a compressor and an evaporator are necessarily present in their design. Consider how they work.
To cool the working chambers of the equipment, the so-called refrigerant is used. The composition is a liquid capable of evaporating at a certain pressure at room temperature.
Most often, refrigerant R22 is used as a refrigerant, but there may be other compounds. All types of refrigerants are called freons.
The refrigerator, like any other refrigeration machine, operates due to the continuous circulation in a closed circuit of the refrigerant, passing the boiling and condensation stages during movement
The duty cycle is as follows. Liquid freon is fed into the die. This is a narrow nozzle in the form of a fragment of a capillary tube through which refrigerant is injected into the evaporator.
The latter is made in the form of a coil, which allows heat exchange to proceed with maximum efficiency. Inside the evaporator, freon rapidly expands and transforms into gas, while absorbing a large amount of heat.
As a result, the temperature inside the refrigerator or freezer compartment drops. If the refrigerant is constantly pumped into the evaporator, the pressure in it will increase sharply and the evaporation process will stop.
Evaporative refrigerators are designed identically. A compressor and an evaporator (+) are necessarily present in their design
Therefore, the freon vapor is continuously pumped out by the compressor and fed to the radiator. This is another coil located on the back of the refrigeration unit. Here the refrigerant vapor condenses and gives off heat.
Next, the liquid freon is fed into the die and the cycle repeats. The main feature of such a system is the presence of moving parts and mechanisms that may sooner or later fail.
Under the Stinol brand, refrigeration units are manufactured with one or two compressors. In the latter case, it becomes possible to separately control the freezer and refrigerator compartments, each of which is serviced by its own compressor.
This is convenient, but significantly complicates the system, as well as its maintenance and repair. In addition, the brand launches No Frost equipment and models with a drip defrosting system.
The electrical circuits of Stinol refrigerators vary slightly depending on the model. In general, they can be represented as shown in the diagram (+)
Electrical system device
The normal operation of any compressor refrigerator provides an electrical circuit.
In its simplest form, it includes several elements:
- Thermostat responsible for maintaining a certain temperature.
- Thermal protection relay to prevent compressor overheating.
- Electric motor
- Start relay, responsible for starting the motor.
The duty cycle is as follows. When voltage is applied to the device, the current moves through a thermostat with closed contacts, a forced defrost button, then through a thermal protection relay to the start relay and to the motor working winding.
To work with the electrical part of the refrigeration unit, you will definitely need a tester, a soldering iron and basic knowledge in the field of electricity
Since the motor shaft is standing, the current flowing through its working winding is much higher than the nominal value. This is necessary, since the design of the starting relay provides for the closure of contacts on the starting winding only when the rated current is exceeded. Thus, the relay transfers the current to the starting winding, the motor starts its rotation, the voltage in the working winding disappears.
The motor continues to operate in normal mode, the refrigeration unit begins to freeze. When the previously set temperature is reached, the thermostat is triggered.
He opens his contacts, and the current ceases to flow to the motor. The compressor of the refrigerator stops. When the temperature changes, the thermostat contacts close again and the cycle repeats.
If the thermostat of the refrigerator fails, there is no point in repairing it. Usually this device is simply replaced completely with a new device
To protect against overheating hazardous to the motor, a thermal protection relay is provided. Its main element is a flexible bimetallic plate. Upon reaching a dangerous temperature, it bends and opens the contacts, the cooled element "rises" into place and closes them.
Overview of typical failures
It is clear that if the equipment stopped working, it needs repair, and sometimes replacement. However, there are signs indicating that the owner needs to pay attention to his unit and, perhaps, invite the master.
Normally, the compressor should operate without excessive noise, periodically turn on / off. Continuous operation of the compressor is a direct signal of a malfunction.
A lean owner always carefully monitors the condition of his refrigerator and notes all the signs that are atypical for normal operation of the unit. Only in this way can serious failures be prevented
The temperature inside the refrigerator and in the freezer compartment must correspond to the set. There should not be excessive frost inside the freezer, and water should not accumulate in the refrigerator compartment. A variety of factors provoke breakdowns.
Most often this is improper operation or installation of the device, mechanical damage, environmental influences, for example, too high temperature in the room. Power surges are also very dangerous.
If the capillary pipeline is clogged, which is not uncommon for “age-old” refrigerators, water will appear in the storage compartment and the temperature will rise
If the engine runs without interruption, and the temperature drops extremely low, the temperature controller is most likely to blame. With its breakdown, a different picture is also possible. The unit refuses to start and defrosts, the compressor does not work.
The compressor will work without shutting down, and ice may appear in the evaporator. Refrigerant may leak through the cooling circuit. This problem is more common with lower freezer equipment.
A metal tube runs along its perimeter, which can corrode in about 6-7 years. In this case, it becomes a source of evaporation of freon.
Over time, some metal structural elements may corrode, resulting in refrigerant leakage, compressor failure, and other malfunctions.
If there is a leak, the freezer will continue to work, but the refrigerator compartment will not. Corrosion can occur in both the evaporator and the condenser. Repair in such cases is not possible, only the replacement of damaged elements.
Quite often, Stinol owners turn to masters with compressor problems. It can be jamming of the motor mechanism. The engine will turn on, but not spin, but only buzz. After a short time, the thermal protection relay will trip.
Frequent and short circuits in the working or in the starting winding of the motor. Less commonly, the capillary conduit fails. This can be seen by the increase in temperature inside the refrigerator and freezer compartment, the appearance of ice on the evaporator.
The engine will work, almost without stopping. All these are typical breakdowns, which the master will most likely have to cope with.
Self Repair Guide
The user, even a little familiar with the technique, understands that it is impossible to give detailed instructions for repairing equipment of a particular brand. Models are too different in their technical characteristics. You can only give general recommendations for the repair of individual components.
#1. The compressor of the device and its suspension
The compressor unit of the refrigeration unit is quite simple. But at the same time, its independent repair is practically excluded. Frequent inter-turn winding closures involve compressor replacement.
Amateur craftsmen trying to rewind them usually spend time and energy for nothing. The reason for this is moisture and dust mixed with air that get into the compressor during operation.
The compressor of the Stinol refrigerator is quite complicated. It is hardly worth repairing it yourself, it is often useless. More often, a full replacement of the node with a new one is used (+)
As a result, the node still has to be changed. Masters do not advise doing this. Another thing is the suspension of the compressor. Due to its deformation, failures in the operation of the entire node are possible.
First of all, it is worth checking the elasticity of the stroke of all its mounting legs. It should be about 8-10 mm or even more. If this is not the case, you will have to replace the shock absorbers, which is neither expensive nor difficult.
The main difficulty will be that the compressor is massive and capable of breaking the cooling circuit tube by weight. Therefore, in the process of replacing shock absorbers, the assembly should be firmly fixed in the working position and handled as carefully as possible.
Another caveat: experienced craftsmen know that atypical noise in the compressor area can come not only from a faulty device, but also from any tube breaking on its body
In the latter case, it is worth wrapping it with cloth or felt and fastening this bandage with a woolen or cotton thread. Synthetics or foam rubber is strictly not recommended.
When the temperature changes, they will become brittle or stick together. In any case, there will be no benefit from them. Such a “bandage” will not only solve the noise problem, but also protect the tube from premature wear.
If it is not recommended to repair the compressor yourself, it is quite possible to “work” with its suspension. The arrows in the picture show the screws holding the racks.
Another common problem is a decrease in the amount of freon. After watching the videos on the Internet, some craftsmen try to refuel on their own. Masters persistently do not recommend this.
It will be possible to fill in Freon, but whether the unit can work after this is a big question. Water vapor and dust will inevitably fall into the cooling circuit during the charging process, which will subsequently lead to breakage.
In addition, the refrigerant injection by a regular compressor implies its forced wet operation. And this is extremely dangerous. In this case, the best thing you can do for your compressor is to invite a qualified specialist with a license, who will perform the necessary work.
# 2 Protection and start system
Starting and thermal protection relays are usually combined by designers in a common unit. In order to get to it you will have to drill the rivets holding the cover.
After the repair work, it is best to put it on plastic glue and “grab” it with screws. The most “weak” places of the node can be considered contacts. They are often contaminated or melted. Elementary cleaning will help here.
Self-priming of the refrigerant in the cooling circuit is not permissible. A wrong operation will lead to a breakdown of the refrigerator and an overly economical owner will have to buy a new one
Another “dangerous” area is the starter core. It can be filled with dust, which leads to sticking of the contacts of the starter. The problem may be in the bimetallic plate. Over time, it is able to lose some elasticity. If the part is slightly curved in cold form, it is enough to give it the desired shape.
Loosened adjusting screws may converge, and then the compressor starts to work as if there are inter-turn faults on both of its windings. To solve the problem, it is enough to unscrew the screws to the required clearance. It is about 0.15-0.25 cm. And clean the contacts of the current protection.
# 3 Thermostat of the refrigeration unit
The design of thermostats used in refrigerators may be different. In general, two types of such elements are distinguished: electronic and thermomechanical.
The first are used in devices with electronic control and are a group of detectors and thermistors connected in a single unit with the control board. Only a certified electronics engineer can try to repair anything in such a system.
In refrigerators with electronic control of thermostats in the form of a separate unit there. They are in simpler models, but here it is not easy to repair the thermostat yourself
The thermomechanical thermostat is designed as a single unit, but it is considered completely non-repairable. This is because the thermotube is glued to the evaporator, the seam is filled with sealant, and the entire system is covered with a casing.
It is extremely difficult to separate the unit from the evaporator without special tools and skills. In addition, you can not violate the correct position of the thermotube, which is fraught with serious damage.
The only thing you can try to do with the thermostat is to work with it without removing it from the unit. So to say "on weight." In this position, the transfer spring can be inspected and replaced if necessary.
You can check the operability of the chipper screw, as well as inspect and thoroughly clean the contacts. Reassembly should be carried out very carefully.
External inspection of the thermal protection relay can be carried out without dismantling. In the event of a serious breakdown, dismantling will be required, for this you need to remove the cover and disconnect the device from the collection terminal box
#4. Drainage system of weeping devices
In units with a drip system, water may appear and accumulate inside the refrigerator compartment. The main reason for this unpleasant phenomenon is a blockage in the drainage system. The design is designed to drain water from the chamber and passes inside the refrigerator.
Another sign of blockage is the appearance of a snow coat in the freezer. Since the drainage begins in the food storage compartment, in order to protect against organics getting into the tube, it must be done with a water seal.
In “crying” refrigeration units, a drainage system with a water trap must be equipped. When it becomes clogged, the owner of the refrigerator starts having problems with the appearance of water in the storage compartment
In practice, it looks like a slight bend in which all unnecessary contaminants can linger. To clean the water seal, the manufacturer offers special tools that need to occasionally clear the hole from accumulated contaminants.
In this case, the outflow of water is improving.If the drainage is clogged, such a cleaning will not help. The blockage will need to be pierced.
This must be done very carefully, since the drainage system itself is a tube made of thin-walled plastic. It is best to take fishing line with a diameter of 1 mm and smoothly melt its end.
The resulting impromptu cable is lowered into the drainage hole and the system is cleaned. Then, one and a half to two liters of warm washing solution is poured into it and finally washed with clean water.
To clean the drainage hole in the configuration of “crying” models of refrigerators there is a device with a tip of the appropriate diameter
#five. Fuser, timer and fan in No Frost appliances
Refrigerators “Without hoarfrost” are structurally more complex than “crying” ones. Accordingly, there are more problems with them. Their main difference is the presence of blowing, which drains excess moisture, which prevents the appearance of frost.
The masters consider the fan, fuser and timer to be the “weakest” places of such devices. Inspect the fan from the freezer. Depending on the model of the refrigerator, the element can be open or closed.
To get to the closed fan in the refrigerator with the Antinei system, you must first remove the cover. Very often the elementary dirt accumulated on the impeller becomes the cause of the problem
In the latter case, the assembly is covered with a cover with holes. For electronically controlled devices, open nodes are typically used. The timer in this case is also electronic.
Such a tandem cannot be independently repaired; a master is needed here. For simpler models with a removable cover and an electromechanical timer, repair is quite possible. First you need to carefully remove the cover.
When reaching the fan, it should be carefully inspected and try to turn the impeller with your finger. If it does not give in or is tight, you need to disassemble the node. For this, a fixing plug is found.
It should be on the axis of the device, it can be covered with a company sticker. A washer is located under the cork, it may be made of plastic or metal. The first is bred and removed using conventional needles.
Steel is removed with pliers or a special tool. Under this washer are a few more Teflon, which are carefully removed and stored. Further, the impeller together with the rotor is removed, cleaned and lubricated.
Wizards warn that the lubricant must be selected correctly. Only low-temperature compositions are used, otherwise they will thicken. After that, reassembly and performance testing are carried out. Perhaps the refrigerator repair was quite successful and the problem is solved.
Often problems with the refrigerator begin with deformation of the seal. If the user noticed that the rubber gasket does not fit snugly, you need to immediately purchase a repair kit and replace it with a worn out one
If not, it remains to check the operation of the fan. To do this, the unit opens at the back, then you need to access the device through which the fan is turned on. It can be either a mains filter or a low voltage filter.
For testing, the fan is connected to the narrow standard terminals of the filter, and the wide ones supply mains voltage. If the impeller does not start to rotate, there may be a problem in the filter.
To verify this, remove a similar filter from the compressor cooling fan and repeat the experiment. When a failure is confirmed, the filter is replaced with a similar one. If everything is in order, it is worth checking the fuser and the timer start timer. They are located in the evaporator area.
First you need to remove the fuser from the connectors and ring it with a tester. Resistance should be zero. If not, change the part, it is disposable. Pre-check for breakdown of the heater TEN of the evaporator.
After that, you need to put in place all the disassembled parts and close the control sockets of the thermic jumper. This should only be done on an off-line unit. Then it is turned on. It should work on a short cycle, abnormally. If so - the problem is in the termichka, it needs to be replaced.
You need to check the thermal contacts very quickly, otherwise you can reset the timer settings. Putting them again is very difficult. It is impossible to do it yourself
An important nuance. Such a check should be very short in time, literally 3-4 seconds, otherwise the timer will fail. If the timer does not work, most likely the cause of the problem is in it. Do not try to repair it, it is within the power of experienced craftsmen. It will be easier to replace the entire defective assembly.
The algorithm for restoring the operating parameters of the thermostat of the Stinol refrigerator:
Video about compressor replacement procedure:
A briefing for those wishing to repair the Antinei system in the Stinol refrigerator:
Stinol refrigerators are of good quality and reliability. However, they also fail. If you have the desire and skills, of course, you can try to "revive" the unit on their own. You need to understand that this event can not always end successfully.
Unskilled repairs can only aggravate the situation and then you will have to fork out for more complex repairs or, which I would not want at all, to purchase a new refrigerator.
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